Archive for April, 2005

Jordan’s social reality challenges visitors

April 27, 2005
I have no idea how I stumbled across this article, but it was a very interesting read… to see a glimpse of Jordan and Amman through the eyes of a foreigner… This guy is a 21-year-old journalism student from Ithaca college in New York, he took arabic classes because he wants to become a middle east correspondant, and he came to Jordan for a study-abroad semester!

I am here as a cultural researcher, and I think the toughest thing about Jordan is to not over-analyze it. Jordanians know exactly who they are and how they live. Naturally. If I tie my brain in knots trying to understand life here, I’ve already missed the meaning.
Actually, the most deceptive thing about my host family’s lifestyle is its casual familiarity.
My host family clearly did not write the “Rough Guide to Jordan,” which describes very strict and gender-segregated customs.
My host brother, 20-year-old Muhammad, and host sister, 18-year-old Batoul, read the customs section and laughed. Those very traditional social rules exist only in the villages now, they told me.

Read entire article

Road Trip!!!

April 27, 2005

Me: “Heyz! What’s up? Listen, do you have any idea where the Middle East Circle is??”
H.: “Hmmm… well it’s far!”
Me: “Yeah, I KNOW it’s far… but where exactly is it?”
H.: “Hmmm… it’s sort of ‘7afartali’!”
Me: “Aha… can you just tell me how to get from there to someplace we know?”
H: “YOU’RE THERE??!! What on earth are you doing there??”
Me: “Well, I was feeling kinda down, and felt like taking a drive, and… I ended up here and I can’t seem to figure out directions any more!!”
H: “Listen just stick to main roads and follow the signs!”
Me: “What else would I be doing? I’ve reached a point where there are no helpful signs!!”
H: “Listen just stick to main roads and look for signs, you’ll find your way trust me… and if you don’t, give me a call again!”

It all started when I got out of the power systems lab after having finished the experiment much earlier than usual… I was feeling blue, and not in the best of moods, so I decided to take a longer way home to clear up my mind… I rolled down the windows, raised the volume of my radio (on Moon FM), and headed towards Airport Road…

A thought occurred to me to head to our farm (on the way to Madaba), but then I saw an exit which said “East Amman“, and I found myself impulsively turning in that direction… I said to myself “What’s the worst thing that could happen? Let’s explore places I don’t usually get to drive in!”

And so I drove… there were times when the surroundings didn’t look familiar, but I was fine, I was relaxed and enjoying it! Then I got to this beautiful road with two exits: One that said “Downtown” and the other “Ras-El-Ein, Al Wehdat”… I don’t know why I took the latter, probably because I knew that once I get to the Municipality building and the Hussein Cultural Center I’d be fine!

But I didn’t get there just yet… well, to cut through some details; I found a sign that said “Zarqa, Al-Mahatta”, and I figured ok I know the road to Zarqa, I’ll take a U-Turn and be back at the Sports City… so I took a U-Turn, but for some bizarre reason I didn’t find myself anywhere near Sports City… instead I just kept going through roads and taking U-Turns and going back and every place just looked the same; it could’ve been Marka, Hashmi, someplace else… I had no clue!!!

Then I found this intersection with signs; to the right it said “Zarqa” and straight ahead “Madaba, Airport”… I couldn’t quite understand how that was possible, but I went straight…

I guess the point where I started to panic was when I found myself next to “Al-Jwaideh” Prison!!! I just started imagining running out of gas or getting in some car accident and then telling my dad that I was next to Jwaideh!!!

Another point where I panicked was when I saw a road sign that said “Iraqi Border, Saudi Border“!! OK I HAD NO INTENTION OF GETTING THIS FAR!!! I realized I was on the eastern road to Madaba, the one I had NO CLUE about…

Just as I was taking a U-Turn, a beautiful Khaleeji song that I had heard with one of my friends that morning came on… I’m not a big fan of Khaleeji songs, but that one is just beautiful, and it put a big smile on my face as I was in the middle of God knows where!!

I guess it was at that point that I could no longer pretend that I had it all under control, and I did what I had been postponing for as long as possible; picked up the phone to ask for help!

Well… I don’t want to bore you with the details of every direction I took, I can just tell you that after AN HOUR AND A HALF of driving, lots of turns and U-Turns, following ambiguous signs or no-signs, I did eventually find the King Hussein Cultural Center as I came through Downtown! Driving through the hustling bustling downtown felt good and safe… with the windows open and all the sounds and smells just rushing in, I couldn’t help but smile and enjoy the atmosphere!! And it felt so amazingly comfortable when I saw the beautiful municipality building… I felt home :)

When I found myself in Abdoun’s main street it just felt weird, but a bit comforting… like Ok Back to Reality!! But the weather was perfect and I went and bought my friend a birthday present before deciding to treat myself to a yummy fruit cocktail from Lebnani Snack :) a dear friend of mine called me and – nice coincidence – turned out to be one minute away… so we got together and sipped the delicious cocktail while I shared my little adventure!!

One thing I have to say… SOMETHING NEEDS TO BE DONE ABOUT THE ROAD SIGNS IN JORDAN!!! Seriously now, everywhere I went I’d find a sign that tells you the direction of the Airport!!! Like the only place people want to get to is the Airport!! And all roads lead to the airport road!!! And what’s worse yet… they don’t give you an approximation of the distance… like the sign can say “Zarqa”, but you wouldn’t know if that’s 50 K away, or 150 Kilometers away!!! There was that roundabout I got to with only one of the four exits marked by a sign, like the other exits lead to no-where!!!

I must say though it was quite an interesting experience, and I would definitely do it again ;) it’s very refreshing to get away from the same roads that one drives everyday (not necessarily to the borders though!!) and at the end of the day, it definitely got my mind off what was annoying me ;p

Bil 3arabi

April 24, 2005
This was supposed to be a post about the joyful tradition of making Ka3k o ma3moul… I was so excited about writing, to share my feelings about sitting for four hours with my mom and 4 sisters and aunt (and in past years mama’s aunt, who’s out of the country this time!!) in one of those rare occasions that bring us all together where we get to talk and share stories and laugh out loud, while preparing the yummy exquisite home-made delicacies that no Zalatimo nor Chez Hilda nor any other patisserie can compete with!!

But then when I started writing and trying to describe things in colorful details, I found myself at a loss for the right expressions and translations… and I got stuck, so a thought occurred to me; why not write it in Arabic!

So I pressed my Alt+right Shift… … … and then got stuck again!! What has happened to me?? Since when am I incapable of expressing myself in my language?? Why does my writing in Arabic feel unnatural?!!

I’m a bookworm, but looking back at all the stuff I read over the past four years, the number of books in Arabic doesn’t exceed 5… actually it’s four to be exact!!! One of those books amazed me with its language, it was by Algerian author Ahlam Mustaghanmi… and when I started reading it I got this urge to write in Arabic again. It was a beautiful reminder of how rich and expressive Arabic language is!

When I watched Amin Matalqa’s short “Saliba Bil Hammam” – which is a hilarious Jordanian comedy that really captures the spirit of our culture – I kept thinking about that girl who’s constantly talking in English with a Ammanista accent, I was like “Oh My God do I sound like that sometimes??!” it felt freaky!! Recently I’ve been paying attention because I don’t wanna sound so “urrr urrr”… a dear friend of mine always tells me how we’re ridiculous when we say that we can’t find the exact expressive word in Arabic and that English flows easier!!

Hmmm… I guess my new resolution would be to read some more books in Arabic every now and then (besides my un-kept resolution of reading more French books to practice and keep in touch with the language – I’ve just started with Albert Camus’ “L’etranger”, and hopefully this time I’ll finish it ;p ) The Arabic texts we studied at school were mostly outdated and dead-boring, which I think has an influence on how we regard the language and its versatility and ability to respond to change and the demands of modern culture… the few that I really liked from our school books were the writings of the great Sudanese Author Al-Tayyeb Saleh, Iraqi poet Bader Shaker al-Sayyab, Tunisian Abul-Qassem Al-shabi, and Abdul-Rahman Munif (I really want to read his book “A City’s Tale”)… I don’t want to blame everything on the school curricula, I honestly don’t know who or what’s to blame?? Or may be there’s nothing to blame anyone for… may be it’s just me and my circle of friends… I don’t know!!

Jordan Booming!

April 21, 2005
Anyone reading the local papers over the past week must have noticed the frequent news about huge new investments in Jordan by real-estate companies… and I mean REALLY HUGE!!

I’ve been following up on the Abdali Development project and I think it’s pretty exciting to have a new center for Amman in this amazingly vibrant and unique location, combining authenticity and character with modernity… For those who don’t know, the project, which is being carried out by the Abdali Investment and Development Company (Abdali) – a joint venture of Saudi Oger and the National Resources Investment and Development Corporation (Mawared), will transform a 34-hectare area into a focal point that features several districts: IT, residential, retailing and entertainment, medical, a civic pole, a campus for the American University in Jordan, and a pedestrian spine. The project will also include a new library and conference centre that will link the site to the existing King Abdullah Mosque, the courts and Jordan’s parliament.

Mr Joseph Helou, Abdali’s general manager, says land usage on the Amman site is being driven by clear-cut goals.’One is to achieve a vibrant, tightly-knit, architecturally distinctive and modern urban nucleus. Another is to create a smart urban community that thrives on the interface between business and education, state-of-the-art infrastructure and communications. A third is to create conditions for increased local economic development by attracting local and international investment.’

Mr Helou says the Abdali site’s IT district, on the highest point of the site, will feature high-rise office buildings adjacent to Amman’s Shmeisani financial district. ‘The Civic Pole on the eastern edge of the site comprises existing public landmarks that will be complemented by a performing arts centre and the King Hussein Memorial Library, to form a Civic Plaza,’ Mr Helou says.

Source: AME Info

Abdali plans to complete all infrastructure work on the site by the end of 2005, giving individual developers the chance to complete design work and obtain planning permission ready to start construction work by 2006. Foster & Partners of the UK have been commissioned to do the Master Plan for the IT district area while Lessico of Lebanon are doing design work for the pedestrian spine that will run through the site.

Source: Impressions

Apart from that, there is the $100 million investment by Sheikh Saed Hariri, son of the late Rafic Hariri, to establish “Saraya Jordan” – a real-estate company with massive projects in mind, the first of which will be announced during the World Economic Forum from 20-22 May.

There’s also the $1billion Royal Metropolis project by Bahrain’s Gulf Finance;

The Royal Metropolis project will comprise of two significant components – the `Jordan Gate’ and `The Districts’. Jordan Gate, which will constitute the first phase of the `Royal Metropolis’ project, will include a futuristic 35-storey office tower, a 35-storey hotel block and a five-storey podium covering a cumulative built-up area of 220,000 square metres. The complex will also feature executive corporate apartments, modern conference facilities, a five-star luxury hotel and an array of retail outlets. Set to become the country’s new landmark, Jordan Gate will be located in a prestigious location in Amman and when completed will be an attractive location for major international companies. play host to the biggest names in the corporate world.

The second phase of Royal Metropolis envisages several industry themed`Districts,’that are aimed at reinforcing Jordan’s status as a dynamic destination for global investments. The `Districts’ will comprise a primary asset class including business components and a secondary asset class covering private, residence, leisure and entertainment.

From: Gulf Finance House

Other big investment examples would include Kurdi Group’s Mecca Mall, which is undergoing an expansion that will take it to 185,000 square metres, making it one of the largest in the Middle East. There’s also the new 160,000-square-metre City Mall, which will be home to Jordan’s first Carrefour supermarket.

Pam Dougherty from British Airways’ Impressions magazine gives an insightful overview of the real-estate boom all over Jordan… a very interesting read.

I must say, sometimes I feel excited about Jordan becoming a regional hub and an attraction for international investment and tourism… but sometimes I just freak out, because I don’t want Amman to be characterized by high-towers and five-star hotels and huge super malls… with more and more consumerism trends, becoming more materialistic and plastic!! I honestly don’t know what to think sometimes… As promising and exciting as some of it is, I can’t help getting this weird uncomfortable feeling, and this desire to go out and look for what captures the spirit, character, and authenticity of the Jordan I so love!!

I thought I had more disorders ;p

April 21, 2005
Inspired by Roba, who was inspired by Subzero Blue… I took the Personality Disorder Test :)
It turned out I was more ok than I thought, except for being “highly” Schizotypal… I read the symptoms and honestly I don’t think it’s me ;)
I got a “Moderate” on Histrionic… I do tend to interrupt conversations to tell my story or say what’s on my mind, a habit I’ve been hopelessly trying to change ;p
Here’s what histrionic is supposed to mean:

Needs to be the center of attention
Dresses or acts provocatively
Rapidly-shifting and shallow emotions
Exaggerates friendships
Overly-dramatic, occassionally theatrical speech
easily influenced; highly suggestible

I think I agree with the overly dramatic point ;)
I just remembered Paulo Coelho’s “Veronica Decides to die“… my conclusion out of it: there is no such thing as ’sanity’… well, it’s our disorders that make the world such an interesting place ;p so come on, step out of the closet and admit it out loud =D here you go!
My results:
Schizoid: Low
Schizotypal: High
Antisocial: Low
Borderline: Low
Histrionic: Moderate
Narcissistic: Low
Avoidant: Low
Dependent: Low
Obsessive-Compulsive: Low

Tell me where you’re from I’ll tell you who to vote for!!!

April 19, 2005
“Jama3et el Janoub (southerners) met with jama3et el wasat (the middle), and agreed to form a pact this time and give their votes to one candidate!”

It’s that time of the year again, the University Student Council Election lobbying, and this guy who barely says Hi to me is suddenly nice and friendly, then explains in a low voice what the deal is this year… assuming unquestionably that I want to know what ‘they’ agreed upon and who I’m supposed to vote for!!

“There was no one running for the Christians, so I decided to nominate myself… because we have to have a candidate!” he continues proudly, and I’m trying to hide my outrage!! “But you’re graduating on the first semester and won’t be able to serve a full council term,” I ask him, “would the University allow you to run?”
“I’ll ask, but someone told me this won’t be a problem…” he says casually, and he goes on explaining, “the Christians decided to enter the south-middle pact, and they will all have an internal vote to agree on which candidate to support, I’ll let you know what happens… we’re having frequent meetings and things aren’t final yet, we’re not sure if the north will enter the pact!” Oh!! Please… I’m really waiting for your decision!! How can I not honor the unspoken rules of where I should stand and in what group I automatically fall!!!

Now in my fourth year at university, none of this is new to me, this sort of talk starts circulating during the spring semester with each election season. What infuriates me the most is the fact that people I don’t know have the nerve to assume that they represent me and can make a decision on my behalf and on behalf of a whole list of students whom they label as “their people”… Last year one guy came up to me and said “can you just let us know when you cast your vote so we can cross your name off the list?” He didn’t think he had any reason to doubt to whom I would give my vote…

Today this guy comes and tells me that they (God knows who they are and how exactly they were chosen to represent this group or that) agreed with Bani Hassan that “Christians will support Bani Hassan in the engineering faculty in return for the reverse in the faculty of business!” Believe it or not even students who couldn’t care less about any of this find themselves eventually drawn in, voting to this candidate or that under pressure from some friend through a chain that inevitably leads to a list with their name on it!!

We talk about Tribalism and Geographic considerations in the Parliament… come see the Universities first!! How can we expect to ever see a real change and true political development and democracy if this sort of mentality is so alive and being fostered among the nation’s youth??!! I will always be proud of my roots, but I refuse to let where I’m from or what my religion is categorize me… When will we have candidates who represent a genuine stream of thought and run based on a clear agenda?!

This whole political development scheme has been going on for quite a while now in Jordan, but I can tell you that from where I stand, political development is very far from taking place at our universities… My four years at university have introduced to me the practical meaning of tribalism, dogmatism, geographic and religious bias, and bigotry… and for all I know the student council does pretty much nothing… except perhaps the reception and registration of new students each year, to do them justice!!

There’s a lot that has to change at the grassroots level, in the culture, mentality, and upbringing of the young people! But the official approach takes a huge part of the blame… for a very long time political affiliations or activism simply meant trouble – a black point on one’s record, and a recipe for headaches, so the majority of students steered away from that path… Nothing tangible is being done now to change this perception, so not only are we not making progress, we are moving backwards… and this scenario doesn’t look like it will be changing anytime soon!!!

What do we know??!!

April 17, 2005

Yesterday I finished reading Sahar Khalifeh’s latest book ‘Rabee3 7ar’ (Hot Spring)… Two years ago I read her novel “Wild Thorns”, and I absolutely loved it! It left me tearful at the end, and completely absorbed with the characters… I guess what was so special about it was its honesty, it was a beautiful, yet painful story that tells the life of ordinary people in the west bank in the aftermath of 1967.

Perhaps it’s because I enjoyed Wild Thorns so much that I don’t quite know what to say about “Hot Spring”… it’s a very good book, but it didn’t leave me with the same feelings, and I didn’t form the same bond with the characters!!

I guess it’s probably not right for me to compare two books written at very different times and each with its own distinct character… if I look at it separately I would say that I love how Sahar always tells the story of the man in the conflict, at a time when we’re surrounded by news and media that just personify ‘the issue’ or the event… when I was a little girl, I had always thought that living in the Middle East and being an Arab meant that I was automatically part of the cause and I just had strong opinions about what was going on and what I thought I understood!! But I soon came to realize that our history books are crap and that we know nothing about what happened and what is happening, and that I cannot form opinions based on the media… yet we do not always have the opportunity to immerse ourselves in the thing we seek to understand, and we cannot always see for ourselves on the ground… so that’s why I guess a story like this helps you see things from a totally different angle!!

Some might argue that this might not be any more objective than the media and news we get!! But I’m just wondering; What is ‘objective’??? I don’t think there’s any such thing as ‘objective’? I once had a chance to meet an amazing researcher from Pakistan, and I will always remember one thing she said “We should celebrate our subjectivity!!”

May be in this book, Sahar Khalifeh tries to introduce many issues more than just tell a story… I’m no critic really, but to me it didn’t feel as simple and honest as Wild Thorns… still is rich with insights though, and definitely a nice and interesting read! Posted by Hello

!!!

April 16, 2005
There were many ideas on my mind that I wanted to write posts about today, but first I just have to get this one thing out: I HATE THIS HOUSE PAINTING THING!!!! I have no idea why my parents just decided to get it done now; repaint the living room, the corridor, and the kitchen ceiling… three very vital areas of the house! I guess I should mention here that we’re a big family; six siblings… but thankfully there’s enough room for each one to be comfortable and have some space! Not today though, dad told us in the morning that it would be preferable if we got whatever we needed from upstairs and stayed downstairs… the basement is where the main computer is and it’s usually very quiet and peaceful, but this afternoon I just couldn’t sit and write two words together without being disturbed by unintentional intruders and noise and all!!!

And guess what… my parents decided to have the basement painted tomorrow!!! I honestly don’t see why, I mean, sure there are all those tape remains on the walls where we used to hang banners and drawings and announcements – yes we had our own bizarre universe when we were kids, each one of us had a corner and we had a special mail and advertising system and we created all sorts of games in this basement ;) … I know that we’ve all grown out of it but I still wouldn’t want the walls to be painted brand new!! (we had a vote for what color and my choice won ;p )

Anyways, it’s such a messy process and I can’t wait for it to get done so that I can go back to opening the fridge a million times between meals, and have some space again ;)

AMAAAAAAAZING!!!

April 14, 2005
I just got back from the Flamenco performance I told you about last week… It’s the BEST event I’ve been to in quite a while :) First of all, it was a FULL HOUSE! We ended up sitting on the stairs, there was no room for one to set foot…
The music was amazing, the guitarist was a group all by himself… bringing out melody with harmony and rhythme in an incredible performance! And the whole group were just wonderful… creating awesome rhythme by clapping and tapping (and in one piece using sticks against the ground in a breath taking beat), and singing with such a powerful voice that resonates with a warm nostalgia and reverberating strengh…
All of this was in accompaniment to the wonderful Flamenco dancing by Tatiana Garrido and her partner… Ah the rhythme… the swiftness and radiating energy…
Unfortunately I couldn’t take pictures, but Roba was there and her camera hardly rested (she was sitting behind me ;) ) so I’m sure she’ll give us a colorful post that captures the spirit of the event :) oh, and I didn’t know at first that the person sitting in front of me was Ammar, I probably gave him a hard time shifting in my place and looking for a spot to settle my feet ;p Roba introduced us at the end of the concert… it’s very interesting how you just feel you’ve known people for quite a while from reading their blogs :)
Again I will say, the audience was impressive (but sadly with the usual noise from people talking and mobiles ringing!!! Can somebody explain to me why people choose not to put the mobile in silent mode??!!)
The group’s final exit was beautiful, interacting with the non-stop applause with obvious joy and appreciation!
Big thanks to the Amman Municipality, and the Cervantes Institute… keep those events coming :)

First Jordanian Short Film Festival

April 13, 2005

Example

Ok people!! All of you in Amman have to check this out…
I’m personally excited because I’m currently working on a feature for On Campus about film-making in Jordan. On Monday I got to talk to Mr Hazem Bitar, who is the man behind the Amman Filmmakers Cooperative. What they’re doing is great because they’re establishing independent filmmaking in Jordan and they’re starting to reap results through recognition at different regional film festivals, like in Dubai and Beirut. One of the main points he emphasized was that the importance of taking initiative; we’re always complaining about lack of support, lack of resources… and all sorts of other excuses, but that’s what they are – excuses! Because young fim makers in Jordan have proven that they can create short films that merit respect and regional and international appreciation… and they’ve done it using a simple digital camcorder, with the right dose of creativity, dedication, ability to learn, and a positive personality.
There’s a lot to be said for this, but I’ll write more about it when I’m done woking on the feature… for now I’m really looking forward to the festival, I’ve seen some of Amin Matalqa’s work and it’s great, and I’d love to see the stuff Laith Majali does, as well as “Overdose” for Ammar Quttaineh and “Decision Man” for Omar Saleh, besides of course the AFC classics that have made it into renowned festivals… check out the full schedule here